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1830s Full High Gown
by Past Patterns. #003
The 1830's Full High Gown is copied from an original in The Hermitage
Clothing Collection. The Hermitage, located in Ho-Ho-Kus, New Jersey is listed on the
National Register of Historic Places.
The Hermitage gown is dated to the 1830's by its rectangular skirt panels
and dropped shoulders with gigot sleeves. In 1836 the gigot sleeves became unfashionable
and were replaced with a sleeve that had a fullness below the elbow. Before 1836, fashion
plates illustrated the hem at ankle length, but after 1836 the hem descended to the instep.
The gown closes in the back with four hooks and eyes; one at the neck and three on the
waistband.
Sizes 10-14 require 7 1/4 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric; sizes 16-20 require
7 3/8 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.
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Circa 1796-1806
Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing Gown
by Past Patterns #031
The #031 pattern was pulled, with permission, from the
extant garment in the Wayne County Historical Museum in Richmond,
Indiana. The gown has no history. It is a day dress. The threads are
hand spun and the fabric is hand woven of linen warp and cotton weft.
The background is white, interrupted every 7/8 inch by alternate threads
of madder red and indigo blue. Unlike today's fabric, the stripes are at
a right angle to the salvage.
Illustrated instructions for sewing the garment by hand
are included, however, this is an easy garment to sew by machine.
The bodice conservatively cut yet it has the
fashionable small back of the period. As a result of the small back
the sleeves form the shoulders, creating a very comfortable fit.
Drawstrings fasten the center front closed at the neck and waist. The
bodice is lined. The front lining is loose from the armholes to center
front. It crosses over and fastens at center front with straight pins.
This front lining does not support the bust. It is to help hold the
front closed. A corset is worn with this garment. Past Patterns' will
be marketing a 1790's-1809 boned stay in 2003.
The pleated skirt is fullest in the back and flat
in the front. A 1-1/2 inch crescent-shaped tuck at center front raises
the skirt over the toes.
This pattern is sized 8-14, 16-20, 22-26 in B, C
and D cups.
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1890's Side Closing Bodices #207
& Circular Skirt#208
by Past Patterns
Side Closing Bodices. #207
These two bodices represent the tailored and
frilly styles of the Gay 1890s. The small gigot sleeve is particularly
attractive to create a broad shoulder line, which in turn gives the
illusion of a small waist.
This pattern is multi-sized 8 through 20. All the sizes are in one
package.
Circular Skirt. #208
Because the Circular Skirt is not gored, it is quick and easy to sew.
This style fits smoothly over the hips.
The pattern is multi-sized 8 through 20.
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1894 Butterick Pattern Company Tea Gown or Wrapper
by Past Patterns #211
It was permissible to entertain close friends at home
wearing a tea gown or wrapper. The rich could afford to have their tea
gown custom made of embroidered silk and expensive lace. The middle
class could order their tea gown from the back of the Sears Roebuck or
Montgomery Ward catalog or purchase the 1894 Butterick pattern and make
their own.
The waist is drawn in snugly with a self fabric belt or wide
ribbon, while the Watteau pleats at center back hang loosely away from
the body. The gown pleats are held in place by the smooth fitting yoke.
The yoke is self fabric trimmed or finished with lace.
The leg 'o mutton sleeves make this a stylish garment which rich or
poor would find irresistible.
The pattern is multi-sized 10 through 18.
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1893 Wedding Gown Bodice
by Past Patterns #301
Worn by Frances Arnold at her marriage to William Chaddock
on June 21, 1893. The bodice was ordered from Marshall Fields in
Chicago, Illinois. Wear the bodice with the 208 skirt.
The original fabric is a heavy silk candlelight satin.
The pattern is multi-sized 8 through 20. This is a pattern
for the bodice only.
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1882-1888 Bustle Wedding Gown with Cathedral Train.
by Past Patterns #303
The bodice fastens by lacing in the front which is drawn
through eyelets. The bodice is boned and form fitting. The sleeves are
7/8 length. The neck and sleeves are trimmed with Brussels lace.
The bustle is created with metal stays in three rows from below the
center back waist to the knees. While the bustle is stylish it is not
necessary to enhance the gown which is quite lovely without it or the
cathedral train.
The cathedral train is separate. It is trimmed on the inside outer
edge with a row of dust ruffles called a balayeuse during 19th century.
The original fabric was a cream silk faille.
The pattern is multi-sized 10 through 16.
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1850-1867 Gathered & Fitted Bodice,
1850-1863 Darted Fitted Bodice
or 1850-1867 Fashionable Skirt,
by Past Patterns #700, 701 & 702
1850-1867 Gathered and Fitted Bodices. #701
The woman holding the fan is wearing a loose-fitting
bodice with bishop sleeves. The front closes with buttons.
The lady with the umbrella wears the same bodice but has chosen a
one piece peg-top sleeve. The front of her bodice fastens with hooks and
eyes. Both bodices are fitted into a waistband with gathering or
plaiting.
This pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20.
1850s-1863 Dart Fitted Bodices. #702
The seated lady wears full pagoda sleeves
fashionable from the late 1850's to 1863. The standing lady wears
modified pagoda sleeves which were popular from the late 1850's though
1863. The under sleeve pattern is included.
This pattern is multi-sizes 10 through 20.
1850-1862 Fashionable Skirt. #700
The skirt can be gathered and flounced, knife-plaited or box-plaited.
The original fabric of the ruffled skirt and the gathered bodice is a
thin cotton. The plaited skirt and the fitted bodice fabric is a
light-weight wool plaid.
This pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20.
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1860s-1870s Homestead Dress by Past Patterns #711
We dated this dress to the 1860s because of the fashionably long shoulder line. The princess
style, however, is more typical of the 1870s. The 711 is a very comfortable gown and the unaproned waist is
suitable for ladies in confinement.
This pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. Sizes 10-14 require 6-1/8 Yds. of 45 inch wide
fabric; sizes 16-20 require 7 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.
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Fan-Front Bodice and Flounced or Single Skirt
by Past Patterns #800 & 801
This fan-front bodice and single skirt were fashionable
between 1841-1847. It may also be worn as an 1850s gown because
daguerreotypes abound of women wearing the fan-front bodice in the
1850s.
The illusion of a small waist is created with
tucks at the shoulders which are drawn into shirring at the center front
waist. The fullness at the center front waist may be fashioned into
pleats.
The bodice is mounted on a form fitting lining.
The lining alone may be used as a pattern for a popular variation from
the fan-front. The long form fitting sleeves may be made with or without
a cap. The bodice is lightly boned and closes in the back with hooks and
eyes.
This pattern is multi-sized 8 through 26 in a B, C
and D cup.
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Fashionable Late 1840s to Early 1850s Round Dress
by Past Patterns #803
The lined and lightly boned front-closing bodice is gathered into a drop-shouldered yoke. The
style, with the bodice and skirt attached to the same waistband, is called a 'round dress'. The #702 undersleeve
works well with this style of sleeve.
The original fabric is a printed cotton paisley in red and brown earth tones.
This pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. All sizes require 5-3/4 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.
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Lowell Mill Dress
by Past Patterns. #806
According to family records, this dress was worn by Mary Gregg Butler. The original appears to have been made in the late
1820s or early 1830s when the sleeves were full. After the full sleeve fell from favor around 1836, the sleeves on the
dress were banded down. The pelerine caplet is worn with the full sleeves.
The original fabric on the dress with the banded-down sleeves is a fine white cotton print with red, blue and brown flowers,
leaves and vines. The fabric for the full-sleeved dress is a large poinsettia with morning trumpet flowers and large broad
leaves.
This pattern is multi-sized 8 through 20. Sizes 8-14 require 7-1/4 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric; sizes 16-20 require 7-3/4 Yds.
of 45 inch wide fabric.
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1880s-1890s Riding Habit Ensemble
by Past Patterns. #900, 901 & 902
1880s-1890s Riding Habit Bodice #902
Riding Habit Bodice is the traditional form fitting, fully darted and high
collared style worn with tailored skirts.
The pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. All sizes require 1-1/2 Yds. of 60 inch wide
fabric or 2 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.
1880s-1890s Riding Habit Skirt #900
The Riding Habit Skirt is the classic full riding skirt with darts
at the knees and longer on the left side and front to hide the feet. When walking
the extra length is draped around the right hip and fastened at the center back
waist with a button and ribbon loop.
Multi-sized 10-20. All sizes require 3-1/4 Yds. of preferably 60" wide fabric
to prevent piecing.
1880s-1890s Riding Habit Trousers #901
The Trowsers are worn instead of a petticoat. The trowsers are not
worn without the skirt. The lady is pictured with the silk knit undervest she
would have worn under the bodice.
The pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. All sizes require 1-5/8 Yds. of 60
wide fabric.
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1880s Polonaise and Walking Skirt
by Past Patterns #904
1880s Polonaise and Walking Skirt. This delicate, doll-like ensemble is made of fine white batiste,
Valenciennes lace and silk ribbon. An open square neck is an option worn in the afternoon or evening. The skirt is
a gored underskirt of unbleached muslin with a white batiste ruffle overlay. The bustle is created at the hips by
the drapery.
This pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. All the sizes are in one package. Look at our National
Standard size chart for your size. All sizes require 4 1/4 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric for the tunic and skirt
ruffles.
If this dress is made of a printed cotton consider using reproduction calico buttons.
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Pattern #003
Pattern #031
Patterns #207&208
Pattern #211
Pattern #301
Pattern #303
Patterns #700-702
Pattern #711
Patterns #800&801
Pattern #803
Pattern #806
Patterns #900-903
Pattern #904
